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Teroldego Foradori 1998 Teroldego Rotaliano ($14.99)
Dark ruby color, with plummy fruit and pumpkin-pie spice aromas. Fresh, juicy red-fruit flavors with a very high level of acidity, in surprising contrast to my notes on last year's release, which seemed to be all fruit without much structure. It's perhaps a better food wine as a result, although a bit tart for sipping alone. U.S. importer: Vias Imports Ltd., NYC. (Oct. 12, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Works very well with an Italian-style braised beef dish with a piquant anchovy sauce.

PRICE WATCH: Curiously, the local retail price of this wine is down a dollar from last year's Teroldego Rotaliano. I have no explanation for this exception to the usual trend in wine pricing.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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