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Verget Verget 1997 Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons" ($25.99)
Bright straw color, breathing good fresh-apple scents with flinty overtones, characteristic Chablis. Crisp, tart apples on the palate, more like cooking apples (Granny Smiths) than sweet eating apples (Red Delicious). Tasty but rather atypical Chablis, more fat and off-dry than I expect from a Premier Cru - it's almost a "mid-Atlantic" style, halfway between France and the U.S. U.S. importer: Vintner Select, Cincinnati. (Oct. 7, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Good match with a not-too-fiery Thai noodle dish with shrimp, tofu and basil.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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