Wine Lovers' Page: Two Riojas

Today's Wine Tasting Note

Sierra Cantabria 1990 Rioja Reserva ($10.99)
Very dark ruby color. Vanilla, black fruit and a whiff of mint in the aroma; full, ripe and juicy fruit flavor, surprisingly youthful, with oaky vanillins and lemon-squirt acidity playing counterpoint to the fruit. A bit light and bright for a traditional Rioja, but it's still appealing, particularly with a good food match. Importer: Cutting Edge Selections Inc., Cincinnati. (Sept. 21, 1997)

Montecillo 1993 Vina Cumbrero Rioja ($8.99)
Clear garnet color. Vanilla and herbal scents, shy fruit. Black fruit flavors, juicy and ripe, but very high acidity adds a lemon-tart tang that knocks it a bit out of balance. It's certainly drinkable, but still clearly an off year for this usually reliable label. Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd., Armonk, N.Y. (Sept. 21, 1997)

All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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