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Firmiano Boscaini 1997 Firmiano Vigneti di Cornaiano Alto Adige Pinot Grigio ($11.99)
Based on my affection for this winery's reds, I eagerly picked up this white, hoping to find more complexity than in your average Pinot Grigio. I found it, but along with it came an odd, marked aroma of wet wool that took some getting used to. The wine is a very pale straw color, with crisp apples along with that odd scent, startlingly reminiscent of a clean wool sweater on a rainy day. Full and found, fresh apple flavors redeem it, but the wooliness hangs on as a persistent element in a long finish. U.S. importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., NYC (Sept. 16, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: The wine's distinct flavors make it a match for a similarly funky Asian dish of sauteed scallops atop braised daikon slices in a five-spice broth with hijiki seaweed and somen noodles.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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