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Eyzaguirre San Francisco de Mostaxal 1995 Cachapoal Valley (Chile) "Vino de Eyzaguirre" Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon ($6.99)
One of the longest names of the year for a wine (or a non-German wine, anyway) attaches to one of the better values I've seen lately. This Chilean Cabernet, from a relatively unknown wine region south of Santiago, comes in a burlap-wrapped bottle with a very old-fashioned label. It shows a dark ruby-purple color in the glass with a froth of tiny bubbles floating on the surface. A very forward grapey aroma (with hints of smoke) and a ripe, juicy fruit flavor, soft at first but with increasing acidic structure as it crosses the palate, all suggest a "Beaujolais-style" approach to Cabernet. It's well-balanced, though, easy quaffing and good with food: A fine value. U.S. importer: Cabernet Corp., Novato, Calif. (Sept. 12, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with simple grilled chicken breasts.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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