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Niepoort 1994 Porto ($29.99/375 ml)
Inky blackish-ruby in color, this young Port breathes black-fruit and dusty, earthy aromas with alcoholic vinous qualities showing up as a hot note on the nose and palate. It excuses its youth with big, mouth-filling fruit flavors, prunes and plums and blackberries and hints of fennel and cloves, built on a sturdy structure of lemony acidity and fierce, barking tannins. There's so much fruit that you can actually enjoy it now (especially with a bite of cheese), but it's really foolish to consume a quality vintage Port so young. Except for analytical purposes, of course! U.S. importer: Martine's Wines Inc., San Rafael, Calif. (Sept. 10, 2000)
FOOD MATCH: Sipped after dinner with a chunk of extra-sharp Cheddar.
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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.|
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