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Giesen Giesen 1998 Canterbury (New Zealand) Riesling ($11.99)
My first New Zealand Riesling, as best I can recall, and I was hoping for something like the Australian Riesling style, dry and crisp and laced up with tart lemon-lime character. It turned out to be a little different and somewhat more puzzling, a clear, light-gold wine with surprisingly pungent conifer and resinous aromas, almost like walking barefoot through a pine forest. Dry, crisp and bright, tart apples and pineapple on the palate, it's easy drinking and a good food wine, but that resinous scent is almost offputting. U.S. importer: USA Wine Imports, NYC. (Sept. 10, 1999)

FOOD MATCH:Washes down a pork loin braised in white wine with fresh green figs, but not as inspired a match as the Zibibbo di Sicilia reviewed separately.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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