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Chateau La Roque Chateau La Roque 1998 Pic Saint Loup Coteaux du Languedoc ($9.99)
Very dark reddish-purple, bright as a neon light at the edge. Jammy red-fruit and herbal aromas, full and ripe, lead into a crisp, full flavor, fresh fruit and herbal notes that follow the nose. A good value as usual from this reliable producer, maybe a bit more closed and in need of time than most previous vintages. U.S. importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Aug. 20, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with a thick, pan-grilled T-bone steak.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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