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Louis Michel Louis Michel & Fils 1997 Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre ($28.99)
Clear starw color, with fresh apple and mineral aroma notes, full and rich. Crisp and ripe on the palate, fresh-fruit flavors follow the nose, clean and very long. An impressive wine now, but youngish; it seems a bit on the simple side for the price, needing cellar time to develop richness and complexity. U.S. importer: Vineyard Brands Inc., Birmingham, Ala. (Aug. 11, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with pan-grilled veal chops finished with a pat of butter and a drop of balsamic vinegar.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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