© Copyright 1999 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Dr. H. Thanisch 1996 Bernkasteler Badstube (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Riesling Spätlese ($16.99)
Very light gold, typically light in color for a Mosel. Musky, pleasantly pungent "conifer" aromas and green apples. Sweet and tart in flavor, apple juice on a structure of steel. Sweet at first tasting, it dries out in the mouth to finish with a citric tang. At only 8 percent alcohol, it's light, crisp and refreshing. U.S. importer: Valckenberg International Inc., Tulsa, Okla. (July 25, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: A light summer dinner of a "hye roller," cracker bread rolled around smoked salmon and dill cream cheese, makes a surprisingly good match; the wine's zingy acidity marries beautifully with the salmon, and its herbal notes seem to bring up the fresh flavor of the dill.
Weingut Peter Lauer 1993 Ayler Kupp (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Riesling Kabinett ($12.99)
FOOD MATCH: Washes down the salmon-cream-cheese snack well enough, but this drier and even more acidic wine doesn't make quite the perfect match that the first wine did.
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