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Romariz Romariz non-vintage White Porto ($10.99)
White Port has an awful reputation with most wine fanciers, at least in the U.S., based on some very cheap and bad domestic wines made under this title in times past. But it has always been a legitimate option in Oporto, and as long as you stick with the genuine article, it's worth getting to know. Sometimes sweet (as in this case), sometimes dry, it is a strong, fortified wine like the more familiar red Ports, somewhat akin to a Fino Sherry but without the intentional oxidation that Sherry undergoes. This one is a clear gold color, with a grapey, faintly nutty aroma that reminds me of almonds and hazelnuts. Distinctly sweet but not "sticky," I would guess that its sugar content is much lower than Ruby Port. With mixed nuts and a firm acidic "grip" in the finish, you could almost close your eyes and imagine you're drinking a red Port. U.S. importer: Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd., Winchester, Va. (July 15, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Served alone for after-dinner sipping.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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