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Hirsch Hirsch 1998 Kammerner Heiligenstein Kamptal (Austria) Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben ($19.99)
Clear, light gold, with fresh honeysuckle and musky melon aromas. Mouth-filling fruit flavor, big and sharply acidic; melon flavors and a citric zing persist in a long finish. U.S. importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.; a Terry Theise Estates Selection. (July 11, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Very good indeed with Vietnamese salad rolls stuffed with surimi, lettuce and cellophane noodles and wrapped in edible "rice paper."

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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