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Quady Andrew Quady 1997 Essensia California Orange Muscat Sweet Dessert Wine ($13.79)
Clear bright amber color, with a delicious and heady scent of fresh juice oranges, this fresh, appealing dessert wine follows through with a tart-sweet, intense bitter-orange flavor structured by crisp, bracing acidity. What it may lack in complexity, it makes up in exuberance: It's a fine, affordable sweet wine, well suited for dessert or brunch.

FOOD MATCH: Personally, I prefer dessert wines AS dessert rather than WITH dessert, but this one would do nicely with fruit or caramelized-sugar desserts like creme caramel or creme brulee.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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