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Diochon Domaine Diochon 1998 Moulin-a-Vent ($16.99)
Dark ruby in color, with fresh scents of blueberries and strawberries and an odd, not unpleasant hint of fresh, clean laundry hanging on the line. Juicy and bright, tart mixed-berry fruit, ripe and showing a distinct astringent hint of tannins. A half-hour in the refrigerator to bring it down to "cellar temperature" does it no harm on a hot summer evening. U.S. importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (June 23, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Very good match with thick pork chops braised with onions and finished with orzo in a dark tomato-based sauce.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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