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Gros Domaine A.-F. Gros 1996 Bourgogne Hauts-Côtes de Nuits ($19.99)
Dark cherry red, with fresh, simple red-fruit aromas. Tart, almost tangy fruit flavors are consistent with the nose, clean and brisk; snappy acidity makes it a fine food companion. A bit simple for the price, but it should hold up and improve for at least a few years. U.S. importer: New Castle Imports Inc., Myrtle Beach, S.C. (May 31, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Good with steamed Copper River salmon with garlic and ginger.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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