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Nuits-St-Georges Domaine Henri Gouges 1996 Nuits-St-Georges ($29.99)
On the one hand, paying $30 for a "simple" villages Burgundy, even from a respected shipper, tends to reinforce my prejudice that Burgundies simply cost too much for what they are. On the other hand, this is pretty good wine! Hazy dark-ruby in color, it offers intriguing aromas - red fruit, tomato-skin and grilled-meat nuances dominate an earthy blend - leading into bright, complex flavors, juicy fruit and zingy acidity. Good now, and it seems likely that time is on its side. U.S. importer: Vineyard Brands Inc., Birmingham, Ala. (May 25, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Makes a fine red-wine-with-fish match with char-grilled Coppe River salmon.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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