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Saint-Andre Corbin Chateau Saint-André Corbin 1989 St-Georges-St-Emilion ($9.99 in 1992)
As a practical matter, today's wine may be impossible to find at retail; I purchased this bottle eight years ago for less than $10. But I present it today in defense of a broader principle: If you're having lamb for Easter dinner, a mature Bordeaux may be the best possible wine match ... and it doesn't necessarily have to be an expensive label.

This modest red from a "satellite" region of St.-Emilion was decent but rather hard and simple in its youth. After seven years in the bottle, though (even without the benefit of proper cellar temperatures), it's showing its breeding. Clear, dark garnet in color, it shows classic Bordeaux scents of black fruit and cedar with pleasant leathery undertones. The flavor follows through with good, deep fruit and balancing acidity; if still a bit austere, it's drinking nicely and still has plenty of life remaining. U.S. importer: William Grant & Sons, NYC. (April 20, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Couldn't ask for a better partner with roast leg of lamb.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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