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Speri 1998 Vigneto la Roverina Valpolicella Classico Superiore ($8.99)
SperiFor those accustomed to lightweight mass-market Valpolicella, this budget wine will come as a revelation. Very dark ruby in color, it breathes the full dried-cherry aroma that's typical of this Northeastern Italian region's rustic reds. Juicy and ripe in flavor, intense and earthy black-cherry fruit leads into a pleasant, delicately bitter finish. U.S. importer: Empson (USA) Inc., Alexandria, Va. (April 15, 2001)

FOOD MATCH: Ripe fruit and tart acid makes this a surprisingly good match with ham.

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