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Lemencier Sylviane et Jacques Lemenicier 1990 Cornas ($16.99)
Hazy dark ruby, with complex, evolved aromas of smoky grilled meat, pleasant "barnyard," black coffee and ripe black fruit. A bit of sulfur in the scent at first is promptly dismissed by swirling a clean penny in the glass. Big and ripe black-fruit flavors follow the nose, earthy and full, structured with lemony acidity and just a touch of fuzzy tannins. A delight, and no hurry to drink it; although it's reaching maturity, a little more time won't hurt. U.S. importer: Weygandt-Metzler Imports Ltd., Unionville, Pa. (March 28, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Absolutely perfect with a Northern Italian roast pork loin with rosemary and juniper berries in a dark tomato sauce, a Marcella Hazan specialty.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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