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Paretaio Falchini 1994 Paretaio Red Tuscan Table Wine ($19.99)
A surprisingly affordable and stylish "Super Tuscan," this upscale relative of Chianti is made from 100 percent Sangiovese and given one year in oak and another year's aging in bottle before release. Dark ruby, purple at the rim, it offers exceptionally appealing aromas of black cherries and blackberries, wildflowers and spice. Its beautifully balanced flavor shows fresh fruit with subtleties that mirror the nose; good body, light tannins and lemon-squirt acidity. A fine food wine, drinking beautifully but seems ageworthy. U.S. importer: Martin Scott Wines Ltd., Lake Success, N.Y. (March 27, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with veal chops, simply pan-grilled.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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