© Copyright 1999 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Byron 1997 Santa Maria Valley (California) Pinot Gris ($14.99)Pale straw color, with a very musky canteloupe aroma, so funky and "organic" and overripe that it almost seems over-the-top at first, but I find it grows on me with time in the glass. Full and bright, earthy muskmelon fruit follows the nose, complex and lingering. (March 19, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: Pan-grilled salmon steaks seem to tame the funky flavors, creating a delicious whole that's greater than the sum of its parts.
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