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Wolf Blass Wolf Blass 1998 Gold Label South Australia Riesling ($11.99)
Australia makes such delicious wines from Riesling, it's a shame that they are so hard to find in the Western Hemisphere. The Wolf Blass rendition rarely fails to delight, and this 1998 offering is no exception. Clear, light gold, its crisp lime-juice aroma adds an odd, appealing pungent note that's surprisingly reminiscent of Dijon mustard at first, then mellows into more typical Riesling "piney" aromatics. Full and fresh flavors are just off-dry and steely, so tart that it vibrates like a steel guitar string. Idiosyncratic but identifiably Riesling; an appealing wine. U.S. importer: Mildara Blass Wines Inc., Raleigh, N.C. (Feb. 28, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with turkey scalloppine sauteed with onions and topped with queso blanco and green tomatillo salsa.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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