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Coltri One Melini 1993 Coltri "One" Red Table Wine of Tuscany ($20.99)
Dark garnet in color, this Tuscan blend shows sharp, pleasant tar and smoke surrounding black fruit and pronounced floral scents in a complex aroma. Full, tart black-fruit flavors and zippy acidity make for an appealing if oddball wine that makes me crack, "it's like a Chianti wearing a clown suit." (Coltri One, by the way, is 70% Sangioveto - the local variant of Sangiovese - and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Melini's Coltri Two is flip-flopped, with Cabernet dominating the Italian grape.) U.S. importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons Ltd., NYC. (Feb. 17, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Makes an unbeatable match with Nika Hazelton's Manzo alla Certosina, an Italian beef pot roast with an anchovy-basil sauce.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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