Borgogno 1990 Barolo Riserva ($26.99)
Dark ruby in color, with characteristic notes of wildflowers, "tar" and a pleasant medicinal quality akin to witch hazel and old herbal remedies, all playing over brooding black fruit. Full black-fruit flavor with complexities mirroring the nose. Hulking acidity and firm but accessible tannins give a powerful structure to a wine that's very tasty now but that will surely hold up and improve for years. U.S. importer: VB Imports, Farmingdale, N.Y. (Jan. 28, 1998)

FOOD MATCH: Chosen specifically to accompany roast beef (a top round roasted at very high temperature and served with a wine-and-porcini sauce), and it did so very well indeed.