© Copyright 1999 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Babcock 1996 Fathom Santa Barbara County Red Table Wine ($19.99)
Inky dark ruby color, almost black. Good blackberry and vanilla aromas, fruit and oak, aromatic and intense. Big and full flavor, sweet oak and lush fruit; so rich that the fruit almost conceals significant tannins and lemony acidity. Far from subtle, but easy to quaff; a big blockbuster of a wine. Despite its "Right Bank" blend of 72 percent Cabernet Franc, 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 13 percent Merlot, it stands much closer to Santa Barbara than Saint-Émilion. (Jan. 22, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: Fair match with pan-grilled lamb chops.
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