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Verdicchio Sartarelli 1998 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi ($9.99)
Clear straw color. Fresh, light melon, pear and citric aromas and flavors; dry, crisp and tart, ripe melon flavors persist in a long, clean finish with a light touch of bitter almond. In the generally bleak realms of modest Italian whites, this one shows surprising character; but drink it up soon, while the freshness lasts. U.S. importer: Vias Imports Ltd., NYC. (Jan. 10, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Works well to wash down an unusual meatless entree, potatoes mashed with ancho and chipotle and served on toasted flour tortillas.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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