These wines are typically more robust and more complex than everyday Beaujolais, to the extent that they could almost be said to exist on the line between Beaujolais and Burgundy -- as, indeed, the Gamay-based Beaujolais is entitled to share with Burgundy's Pinot Noir the title "Red Burgundy Wine."

Two of the sturdiest of all the Crus are Morgon and Moulin-A-Vent, wines delicious to drink in youth but that -- in contrast with the conventional wisdom of Beaujolais -- actually may improve with a few years of cellar time. It was my pleasure recently to sample this pair of recent arrivals:

Domaine Diochon 1997 Moulin-À-Vent Cuvée Vieilles Vignes ($15.99)
Very dark ruby color. Black fruit and a hint of blueberries in the aroma, with a pleasant leathery scent as a grace note. Full and juicy fruit flavors, consistent with the nose: Blackberries and blueberries in a tart, bone-dry flavor that lasts. U.S. importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Jan. 3, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Especially good with French onion soup; the fruity wine is in its element with the sweetness of long-cooked, caramelized onions.

Louis Jadot 1997 Chateau de Bellevue Morgon ($11.99) Best Buy!
Dark ruby. Deep and aromatic scent of Chambord (raspberry liqueur); ripe, red-fruit flavor on a platform of firm, snappy acidity. Fruity and well-balanced, a delicious wine. U.S. importer: Kobrand Corp., NYC. (Jan. 2, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Holds its own with a hearty oxtail stew.

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