Renzo Masi 1998 Chianti Rufina Riserva ($12.99)
Very dark ruby color, blackish-purple at the center. Ripe black-cherry fruit and spicy oak aromas, textbook Chianti. Full, juicy fruit flavor is consistent with the nose, so ripe it almost seems sweet, but with plenty of lemon-squirt acidity to give it balance and make it sing with food. US Importer: HB Wine Merchants, NYC. (Jul 5, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Excellent match with a Pugliese-style pasta dish of cauliflower with tomatoes and garlic over penne, a riff on a recipe seen on FoodTV's "Molto Mario."

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