Domaine Charles Audoin 2004 Marsannay Au Champ Salomon ($16.99)
Clear gold, looks a bit aged for an '04. Spicy oak and white fruit, an earthy whiff of wet wool; rich and full-bodied flavor follows the nose, apples and spice with just a touch of oxidative character. First taste bears a slight impression of sweetness, but the wine finishes tart and dry. Interesting wine, oak a bit dominant, but there's much more going on. Not at all over the hill, although it does seem mature for a four-year-old wine. US Importer: Martine's Wines Inc., Novato, Calif. (May 27, 2008)

FOOD MATCH: Beautiful with the poultry, cream and fresh herbs in a simple chicken tarragon.

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