Cave de Montagnac 2006 Picpoul de Pinet ($7.99)
Transparent straw color, bright glints against the light. Clean and fresh, citrus and a whiff of pear. Crisp fruit flavors follow the nose, shaped by brisk fresh-fruit acidity, stops short of lip-stinging, but I'm not inclined to complain about that. Simple and fresh, a good food wine and an exceptionally good value. US Importer: Wine Adventures Inc., West Des Moines, Iowa. (Jan 22, 2008)

FOOD MATCH: The classic pairing in Languedoc is fresh oysters on the half-shell, but Picpoul makes an amiable companion with a range of seafood, poultry and fish. It was beautiful with a simple, subtle Chinese-style dish, steamed chicken in black-bean sauce with ginger and garlic.

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