Catherine le Goeuil 2005 Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne "Cuvée Léa Felsch" ($9.99)
Very dark purple, almost black, with a thin, clear garnet edge. Good and complex aromas, black raspberries and black pepper accented with a whiff of earth. Mouth-filling black fruit, fragrant pepper and mouth-watering acidity; plenty of smooth tannins well cloaked by fruit, and it carries its sturdy 14 percent alcohol well. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Jan 23, 2008)

FOOD MATCH: Grilled red meat would be a delight with it, but the wine showed its versatility by pairing surprisingly well with a more subtle match, a Spanish style tortilla with potatoes and onions.



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