Cappellano 2003 Nebiolo d'Alba ($29.99)
Dark ruby, clear edge, an unusually pretty jewel-like color against the light. Intense and extracted, a signal of 2003 perhaps, but appealing in its complexity; black plums and Nebbiolo "tar," hints of raisin and perhaps just a faint hint of hazelnuts. Flavors consistent, plums and a scent of Nebbiolo "violets" sensed more inside the mouth than through the nose. Good acidity, which is a good thing, as it needs plenty to stand up to the ripe, extracted fruit. Decent wine, old-style and complex, a bit supercharged by the hot summer of '03 in Europe but still fine. US Importer: LDM Wines Inc., NYC; Louis/Dressner Selections. (Nov 23, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: Needs the bold, robust flavors of red meat, even game, or perhaps strong cheese. It was a delight with lamb shanks braised with herbs.



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