Domaine le Grand Destré 2005 Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange ($8.99)
Very dark garnet. Aromas of plums, black pepper, smoke and grilled meat. A bit light in the mouth, an odd combination of bold aromas, light body and seriously astringent tannins cloaking simple black fruit and rather soft acidity. Rustic, somewhat awkward, yet pleasant overall, and good at the table; rare beef brings it around. US Importer: Wine Adventures Inc., West Des Moines, Iowa. (Sep 8, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: Medium-rare, pepper-crusted rib eye steak makes a fine companion, taming the wine's tannins and bringing it into balance.

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