Savary 1998 Chablis ($17.99)
Pale straw color with a faint brassy glint. Apple scents add an odd, earthy note, a bit like ripe cheese. More typically Chablis on the palate, showing white fruit and the lovely "stony" minerality and crisp, steely acidic structure that distinguishes Chablis. Decent wine, but the lesson here is that simple Chablis - particularly from a cool and wet vintage like 1998 - is best drunk up within a year or two. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (May 17, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Workable if unexciting match with pan-seared scallops with lemon flavors over pasta.

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