Emilio Lustau Solera Reserva Dry Oloroso "Don Nuño" ($20.99)
This is a dark but transparently clear, bronze-color wine with a coppery hue. Appetizing aromas are nutlike and true, cracked walnuts and pecans, with more subtle back notes of dried figs and dates. Nuts and lemony acidity on the palate, full-bodied and quite dry on first tasting, opening up to just a faint hint of dried-fruit, brown-sugar sweetness in the smooth, mellow finish. US Importer: Europvin USA, Oakland, Calif., Selected by Christopher Cannan. (Jun 14, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: This full, dry wine really works best on its own, as an aperitif or for after-dinner sipping in place of a brandy. For the sake of experimentation, I tried it with a Sichuan shredded-beef stir-fry for which I had used a tablespoon or two of Oloroso as an ingredient, and it did work. On the whole, though, I wouldn't normally use Oloroso it a food wine.

WEB LINK: http://www.emilio-lustau.com

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