Jean-Paul Brun 2005 Morgon Terres Dorées ($16.99)
Garnet, on the dark side for a Beaujolais, with a clear edge. Ripe black-cherry and plum aromas add faint back note of fragrant black pepper. Bright, mouth-filling and tart, juicy cherries and lemon ice, with just a wisp of tannin in the finish. A bit tight when poured, opens up with a little time and swirling in the glass. Delicious. US Importer: LDM Wines Inc., NYC; Louis/Dressner Selections. (May 22, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: Roast pork or grilled poultry make fine choices with versatile, food-friendly "Cru" Beaujolais. The pork chops with onions and crispy bits of pork belly featured in yesterday's Wine Advisor FoodLetter made a perfect pairing.

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