Jean-Marc Brocard 2005 Domaine Sainte Claire Petit Chablis ($22.99)
Clear straw color. Aromas focus on baking apples and rising bread dough, standard-issue Chardonnay without obvious oak. Clean, appley fruit adds a touch of lemon on the palate; good body and crisp acidity. Nicely structured if a bit on the simple side - you won't find much of the region's fabled minerality in the Petit Chablis bottlings - but it's appropriately young and fresh. This local price is out of line; look for it in the lower to middle teens. US Importer: Martine's Wines Inc., Novato, Calif. (May 17, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: Its pleasant if rather neutral Chardonnay style makes it versatile enough to wash down just about any fare, even - as in our experiment - red meat such as steak. It's really best suited, though, for freshwater fish, poultry or even lighter-style pork dishes.



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