Giovanni Rosso 2005 Dolcetto d'Alba "Le Quattro Vigne" ($15.99)
Very dark garnet in color, this Northwestern Italian red puts earthy red-clay minerality forward in the aroma, with black plums and blueberries lurking more shyly beneath. Rather light-bodied, tart and tannic; "dusty" black-fruit flavors follow the nose. Earth and tannins mark it as a fairly typical Dolcetto, but it's a bit short in the finish. This is not a fatal flaw, but it's a bit disappointing when lingering flavors go "poof" shortly after you swallow. US Importer: Sherbrooke Cellars, NYC. (Mar 11, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: A Tuscan-influenced dish, duck and wild-mushroom ragu in an aromatic sauce over fusilli pasta, makes a fine partner with the earthy character of this wine.



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