Domaine d'Aupilhac 2004 Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux ($17.99)
Very dark, unfiltered blackish-purple with a clear garnet edge. Fruit and earth, red plums and clay, fragrant black pepper and a whiff of "barnyard" come together in a somewhat rustic but bold and complex wine that clearly displays the Coteaux du Languedoc style. Juicy and bright, tart red fruit and snappy acidity; heavy, coarse-grained tannins contribute structure. It's impressive now if you don't mind the tannic astringency, but a couple of years might knock off some of the rough edges. It assembles just about all the region's varietal suspects: Mourvedre (30%), Carignan (30%), Syrah (25%), Grenache (10%) and Cinsaut (5%). US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Feb 26, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: The peppery, earthy flavors and tannic astringency of this sturdy red call for beef. Tt would work well with a sizzling rare steak from the grill, and was also fine with the more down-home charms of a long-cooked beef pot roast with onions, carrots and potatoes.



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