Bertani 2002 "Catullo" Veneto ($19.99)
Very dark reddish-purple. Attractive dried-cherry scent, reminiscent of Valpolicella. Fresh and bright, crisp red fruit and mouth-watering acidity over smooth, well-integrated tannins. It's a nicely balanced, food-friendly and refined red, akin to a Valpolicella on steroids or a lighter-style Amarone, but with a character all its own. US Importer: Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, Fla. (Feb 10, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: With its juicy, tart dried-fruit flavors, this would be a natural with the dark, earthy and rich flavors of duck or dark turkey meat, and I could see accompanying it - as I've done with Amarone - with fresh-sliced curls from a wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano. It was excellent with the Sudtirol dish featured in last week's WineAdvisor FoodLetter, white creamer potatoes in a creamy sauce of Crucolo cheese and milk with prosciutto.



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