Perrin Réserve 2004 Côtes du Rhône ($10.79)
This is a fine-value red wine from the Perrin family, producers of the fabled Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It's very dark garnet in color, with aromas of black fruit and spice plus a whiff of pepper. Flavors are consistent with the nose, spicy red berries, tangy acidity and a surprising edge of rather rough tannins. Odd combination of light body and full flavor, but it works. It's nothing fancy, but it reminds me pleasantly of red wines served in small pitchers in Paris cafes, back in the days - it hasn't been that long - when I was first learning about wine and about Paris. US Importer: Vineyard Brands, Inc., Birmingham, Ala. (Nov 11, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: Okay, it's not Italian, but it still makes a splendid match with a simple dish of spaghetti and beef meatballs. It would serve well with a wide range of red meat or poultry.



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