Pertimali 2004 Rosso di Montalcino ($26.99)
Inky dark purple, almost black, so dark that it takes a strong light behind it to show garnet flashes in the glass. It's just as concentrated in the nose and on the palate as the sight: Black-cherry and plum aromas add complex touches of leather and a hint of caramel; similar on the palate, a suggestion of chocolate-covered cherries but bone-dry, with good, food-friendly acidity and firm but smooth tannins building structure. All this might sound like a modern, international wine, but complexity and earthiness and sturdy balance bespeak the Old World: There's no question that it's a Tuscan wine. US Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY.; Marc de Grazia Selection. (Nov 28, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: An appropriate regional and gustatory match with a classic Italian dish, Bucatini all'Amatriciana, with a footnote that the dried red peppers that add piquancy to the Abruzzese tradition should be held under control to keep it wine-friendly.



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