Raphaël Bartucci NV Bugey Cerdon ($19.99)
The Champagne-style cork comes out of this clear, bright pink wine with a fully carbonated pop, and it pours with a frothy fizz that quickly falls back to a lasting bubble stream. Its lovely scent blends fresh strawberries, rising bread dough and subtle earthiness. Fizzy and crisp, it's well off-dry, but good acidity keeps it from cloying, juicy strawberry flavors hanging on in a long finish. Light and gulpable at just 8% alcohol, it's ideal for summer sipping, but I wouldn't turn it down on a holiday table. US Importer: USA Wine Imports, NYC; Jenny & François Selections, World Wide Wine Ltd. (Nov 16, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: Anticipating a Thanksgiving dinner combination, it went well with roasted turkey thighs. The crisp strawberry fruit and crisp acidity made a fine flavor match with the earthy, slightly oily flavor of turkey dark meat, and the sweetness of the wine seemed to dry out a bit with the food match.

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