Jean-Paul Brun 2005 "Terres Dorees" Beaujolais "L'Ancien" Vieilles Vignes ($12.49)
Clear dark ruby shades to a transparent purple at the edge. Amazing perfumed wild-strawberry aroma, fresh and true, all but leaps from the glass. I don't even have to put my nose in the glass; fresh strawberry scents loft up from its place at the table. The flavor is similarly intriguing: Fragrant pepper and subtle loamy earth join the red fruit, raspberry liqueur and mouth-watering acidity. It's mostly about strawberries, though, and they last and last in a long finish with beautiful freshness and balance. US Importer: LDM Wines Inc., Louis/Dressner Selections. (Nov 7, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: In the first tasting, it was splendid with a saltimbocca-inspired dish of boneless chicken breasts rolled in provolone and prosciutto, sauteed with butter and sage. In the second tasting, I ran it in as a substitute for Pinot Noir and it served well with fresh ahi tuna stir-fried with garlic and ginger and finished with soy sauce and lime.



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