Abbazia di Novacella 2004 Alto Adige Valle Isargo Kerner ($19.99)
Transparent straw color. Fresh aromas offer a tasty blend of mixed white fruits, with hints of apple, peach, grapefruit and a tropical whiff of mango. It's ripe and full in flavor, so luscious that the first sip seems sweet and almost soft, but that impression quickly gives way to tart, mouth-watering acidity and a distinct touch of peach-pit bitterness. The label claims a hefty 14% alcohol, but alcoholic heat isn't obvious in its well-balanced flavor and crisp white-fruit finish. US Importer: VIAS Imports, NYC. (Aug 30, 2006)
FOOD MATCH: It has the heft to hold up to pork, veal, roast chicken or swordfish; I put it to good use with a Caprese-style summer salad of thick, ripe tomato slices layered with mozzarella, sliced avocado and thin-sliced peppered nova salmon.
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