Nomad 2004 Chile Red Wine ($16.00)
This opaque wine is an inky, shiny patent-leather black color almost all the way to the dark-garnet edge. Earthy black-fruit aromas blend ripe plums with smoke and raw beef. Mouth-filling plum and spice flavors are juicy and full, with crisp acidity providing good structure. Fresh fruit and a whiff of woodsmoke linger in the finish. Oak is evident, but it's handled well and doesn't dominate the fruit. This may sound like an international-style, "Mondovino" wine that would normally repel me, but it's not: Complexity and balance and subtle earthiness save it from mere "fruit bomb" status and make it an interesting, if offbeat, table wine. US Importer: Jessica Tomei, Camino, Calif. (Jul 3, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: Its rather exotic complexity made it a fine companion with a Chinese-style dish of stir-fried beef and onions with Asian spices. Structure and smoky-meaty notes would also make it as natural a choice as a hearty red Rhone with grilled red meat.

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