Domaine des Baumard 1997 Savennières ($21.99)
This is a clear, straw-color wine with distinct glints of gold. Lovely aromas show still-vibrant white fruit with a dance of mature-white aromas that include almonds, butterscotch and banana oil. Full-bodied flavors are consistent with the nose, clean fruit and butterscotch shaped by lively acidity, with complex mineral flavors lurking just beneath the surface. Very fine wine, mature but by no means going around the bend. US Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, Calif. (May 12, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: Complex enough for sipping thoughtfully as an after-dinner drink, but it went beautifully with a robust fish dinner, fresh cod baked on a bed of thin-sliced potatoes with plenty of garlic and olive oil.



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