Hirsch 2004 "Veltliner #1" Kamptal Grüner Veltliner ($10.00)
This wine's clear golden color is transparent and very pale, typical of GV, and its white-fruit and green-pea aromas are similarly characteristic of the grape. Crisp and citric, dry and tart, it's a bit on the simple side, but mouth-watering and food-friendly, with an attractive touch of "rainwater" minerality developing as the wine warms in the glass. (The producer numbers this screw-capped bottling sequentially, by the way; the 2004 vintage is marketed in Europe as "Veltliner #3," but the U.S. label retains "#1" for all vintages.) US Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; a Terry Theise Estate Selection (Apr 3, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: One of the most versatile and food-friendly of wines, GV pairs well with veal or pork, poultry and fish, and it's developing a reputation as an exceptional match with Asian fare. It passed that test well with a simple "fusion" dish that added a touch of Southeast Asian spice to light veal polpettone in brodo.

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