Quinta do Feital 2002 "Dorado" Moncão Vinho Verde Alvarinho ($22.99)
A modern, upscale take on Portuguese Vinho Verde made by a Spanish producer who crossed the river from Rias Baixas in Galicia to make wine on both sides of the Spanish-Portuguese border, it's Vinho Verde in the new style, hearty and full-bodied, aged on its yeast sediment (lees) to add richness and complexity of flavor. It shows a clear straw color with a golden hue. Peaches and minty fresh herbal scents come together in a complex, appealing aroma. Mouth-filling and full, ripe flavors follow the nose, with good acidic structure and a whiff of spice. Very fine wine, although it's a far cry from the standard light and frothy Vinho Verde. US Importer: Vieux Vins Inc., Vineburg, Calif.; The Rare Wine Co. (Mar 24, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: Portuguese or Spanish, Alvarinho or Albariño, either way these aromatic whites are made for seafood and fish. This wine's body and structure brought it up to a more robust fish dinner, fresh cod cut in bite-size chunks, quickly sauteed in a skillet of home fries and onions scented with homeopathic dashes of cumin and Asian "five spice."

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