Drytown Cellars 2004 California Malvasia Bianca ($10.50)
Straw color, transparent and very pale, with a faint greenish hue. Aromatic and floral, white flowers and a squirt of grapefruit waft from the glass. Flavors are consistent with the nose, so fresh and fruity that the first impression is of sweetness, but crisp acidity provides structure, and the finish is long and just off-dry, with juicy fresh citrus flavors lingering. It's no lightweight, but carries its 14.3 percent alcohol well. US Importer: (Feb 20, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: This would make a great aperitif for spring and summer sipping, but it serves well at the table, with enough personality to stand up well to hearty fare; it should go as nicely as Riesling (which it somewhat resembles) with spicy Asian fare, and it was fine with a hearty risotto with broccoli rabe and tomatoes, onions, garlic and Parmigiano.

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